KZN trip 2015

Our 4:30 wake up call was almost too much but the draw of the bush overcame the desire to sleep in.  It was worth it. That morning we found the wild dogs growling and playfully scrapping over their kill -  a young, pregnant, female impala. The foetus had been dragged away as the tasty prize by the dominant male.   Having eaten their fill the dogs rolled around in the dirt chasing one another round and round the parched bush only metres from the heavy lorries hammering along the N2 north of Durban.

We had chosen to satisfy our annual safari itch by visiting three game reserves in the far east of South Africa in the arid, drought hit area of northern Kwa Zulu Natal.  Our first stop was the Zululand Rhino Reserve where we stayed at Rhino River Lodge.  It proved to be an excellent choice.

We had two daily game drives, one at first light and one at sunset and more food than was healthy. 

Our private stoep

Our own splash pool perfect for a cooling dip

Between times we relaxed in our comfortable cottage which had a huge veranda with comfortable sofas and a plunge pool. We could snooze away the hot hours to recover from the early start.  Our cottage also had a small pond where a constant stream of bulbul kept us entertained and when a violet backed starling, a purple crested turaco and an African goshawk showed up – well our cup of happiness ran over.

Violet backed starling

 The Zululand Rhino Reserve is a fascinating reserve full of tracks and trails, narrow and broad, twisting and turning through an incredible variety of terrains and vegetation providing different habitats for the animals.

Alex from Zimbabwe

Our Zimbabwean guide, Alex, was knowledgeable and funny and all the guides from the different lodges work together so guests get to see not just the expected animals but also cheetah, lion and wild dogs.  The only animal noticeable by its absence while we were there were the elephants that had managed to melt into the bush and the shy leopards that rarely made an appearance. 

Three lions looking for trouble

However the highlight of our stay was coming across a group of three lions, mother, son and daughter who were finishing off their nyala breakfast. They then sauntered down the road in front of us before mother dropped down into the dry river bed while the brother and sister walked along the road.  A small group of male nyala that have poor eyesight kept a nervous eye on the two lions not realising that mother was quietly approaching from behind.  Suddenly she shot out and grabbed an unfortunate buck who struggled gamely till finally being suffocated.  The three lions then played with their food, not hungry, as they had already breakfasted.  It was a window on the brutality of nature.

Beautiful local ladies in traditional colours

We reluctantly moved on to our second reserve; Tembe Elephant Park right up on the Mozambique border.  This park is run by the Tembe community who are rightly proud of all they do. Employment opportunities in this area are few and the tribal chiefs were persuaded that giving up farmland to create an animal reserve would provide income and jobs for the local people. The staff are very hospitable and welcomed us with song dressed in tribal colours and treated us as guests to their community with a beautiful sense of service and pride in the area and the animals. 

It is an unusual park of sand forest, closed and open bush, grasslands and swampland which is growing dryer by the day. The waterholes and pans have mostly disappeared leaving just mud. It is several years since the rain fell properly and though the trees and bushes sprouted fresh green shoots the under brush was dry and brittle – everywhere the vegetation almost the same colour as the grey sand.

Our two guides – Vusi with a Nelson Mandela voice and the excitable Sakehile who took us out for morning and evening game drives were knowledgeable not just about the animals but also the birds.  There are hundreds of different species and only occasionally did our guides have to resort to the bird books to sort out exactly which species was fluttering around in the bush or undergrowth.

Our cup of happiness was filled to overflowing as we gazed at an obliging gorgeous bush shrike that stayed still long enough for us all to see and admire his aptly named plumage. We saw three different types of snake eagles and were left filled with admiration as our guide pointed out a white blob in a tree about 500 metres away which he confidently assured us was a martial eagle. The binoculars proved him right.

As we stopped for morning coffee and a rusk a huge male tusker meandered down the path. We watched him nervously but our guides continued serving drinks. About 50 metres from us the elephant turned off into the bush and made a detour round our offending vehicle.

We had several encounters with elephants. One group of mums and babies ambled around us carelessly demolishing the vegetation and one afternoon at the waterhole we watched for nearly two hours as a group of male elephants queued up for the fresh water from the hosepipe rather than the muddy water of the hole.  The dominant male however would not give way and in the end all the other males left him to it.  Our reward for our patience was the arrival of a male and female lion who were reluctant to approach the water with the elephants there.

On our last evening game drive Sakehile finally spotted the suni, a tiny antelope, which we had all been hoping to see.  The pack of wild dogs had apparently emigrated, albeit temporarily, to Mozambique. 

We were fortunate that our fellow companions on the game drive vehicle were even keener birders than ourselves. We had moments when we would sit by some bush and just watch and wait and spot the birds. If we had been with people who only wanted to see the Big 5, it would have been a frustrating time. The birds really are worth pursuing.  

The restaurant at Tembe

Our third destination was the KZN Wildlife park at Ithala 70 kilometres from Pongolo. It borders the Pongolo River and lies across the northern Drakensburg with stunning views, a wide variety of animals and over 800 bird species.

Christopher overlooking the Pongolo River

It took a little adjusting from the high level of service of the first two parks to the DIY of this game reserve.  The reception staff were welcoming and our chalet was clean if a little spartan. The main lodge area, perched on the side of the mountain has fine views over the surrounding countryside. However all water comes in by tankers. When the water ran low, hot water came out of the cold tap and nothing out of the hot tap. The problem was the water tanker could not deliver its load even though it was at the camp because its brakes had failed so it sat there overnight, full of water, till someone came and repaired the brakes. Normal water service was resumed next day.

Ithala Game Reserve

The unusual sight of lying down giraffe

Next morning we took our first game drive and quickly realised what we were missing – an experienced birder.  Birds flew all around us and we managed to identify only a few of them.  After breakfast we took a long drive from the elevated main lodge right down to the banks of the Pongolo River. What a treat as the narrow track wound down through deep riverine landscape to the picnic area on the banks of the river.  Birds flitted tantalisingly through the trees and we were the only people enjoying the peace and beauty here.

What you looking at?

The one thing that was not so good was the food in the restaurant.  Being unable to self cater we were dependant on the restaurant and though the chefs were enthusiastic and there was usually masses of it, the food was generally overcooked.  The second two nights with the camp full, the restaurant put on an extensive buffet but I suspect much of the hot food had been sitting around for hours.

On our second full day in Ithala we took the other main route from the rest camp along a bumpy track with stunning views but few animals.  It was here that our high-off-the-ground vehicle came into its own. Once we came down the mountainside and along the dirt road to the picnic site by a river we passed more dry waterholes. The animals were finding water and grazing by the rivers but all the areas we visited are suffering from the 3-year drought. 

Howick Falls

Our final weekend was spent in Hillcrest with our good friends Norman and Jean. The sharp change in the weather from baking hot to a heavy, low cloud with constant mizzle took some getting used to.

Nelson Mandela's head

It was wonderful though to catch up, eat far more healthily and visit Sarepta church in Hillcrest. On our final day we all went up to the Midlands Meander above Pietermaritzburg and visited Howick Falls and the very clever ‘statue’ of Nelson Mandela’s head marking the spot where he was arrested before being sentenced to life imprisonment.  You can only view his head from one spot. Looking from anywhere else and you only see a random collection of oddly shaped poles.

Christopher. Norman and Jean at Howick Falls

We finished off our day with a lovely meal and a drive through the scenic countryside, more like England than South Africa.  Next day we flew back to a cooler, fresher Cape Town.

Misty morning

Monkey driving!

Back shouldered barbet

Baby rhino

Always hope with God

We fitted back into life here in Fish Hoek, South Africa as if we had never been away.  We picked up life again seamlessly yet much has changed.

Many people are really struggling financially and we don’t mean poor black people but white middle class.  We noticed quite a rise in food prices since we left in April.  For us with our strong British pound that is not a problem but with a devaluing rand, life can be tough for South Africans.  Taxes go up and many people don’t pay them, electricity prices soar and water prices are rising.

Hope is also beginning to seep away.  Chronic cronyism, runaway corruption, appalling mismanagement of state industries, the price drop of mineral resources worldwide and a government leadership that does anything except lead has caused discouragement.  Students are rioting and the government gives way.  The optimism of the rainbow nation under Nelson Mandela is a faint memory and the reality of yet another corrupt African government is all too evident.

In our area we have had road works for over 5 years now causing shocking congestion and many local businesses suffer.  The work will not be completed for two more years. Our local township has had terrible rioting following the rape and murder of a child. Mob justice prevailed and even when the wrong people were caught and killed, it didn’t stop.  Local people were prevented from getting to work and school by rioters.  It looks as if the situation is coming under control but it basically started because the police were unable or unwilling to enter the township and it was run by the drug lords from outside the area.

Now there are fires – an arsonist at loose on the mountains and a terrible shack fire again in our local township where 4000 people were made homeless and two died.  Our local charity, Living Hope, run by the baptist Church King of Kings is right at the forefront of the relief effort.

http://ewn.co.za/2015/11/30/Over-4000-left-homeless-following-Masiphumelele-shack-fire 

http://ewn.co.za/2015/12/02/Donations-pour-in-as-Masiphumelele-residents-rebuild-ruins  

This all appears rather hopeless but nothing can be hopeless with our God – there is always hope. The local people and businesses have given generously to those made homeless despite their lack. And prayer. People are praying like never before.  We have three new prayer meetings at our church – all started spontaneously. Following the unrest in the township most churches were praying and an all church prayer meeting attracted over 100 people from many churches to pray.

We have to believe God has a better plan and purpose for our lives and South Africa. Pray-ers are taking up the challenge to confront the problems and not just moan about them. It’s a challenging time to be in South Africa but God didn’t call us here to sit in the sun and play golf. We are called to stand with our fellow believers, to pray, to encourage and strengthen as best we can. Till God says otherwise – that is what we will do.

Two Brits let loose in America

Two Brits let loose in America

We have just spent two weeks holidaying with our son, Jonathan and our daughter-in-law Alyssa in Salem Massachusetts. Yes that Salem; the one with the witch trials in 1692, a period of societal hysteria and injustice. Most places would consign their dubious history to the archive but this is America - so let’s turn it into a tourist destination! 

Beautiful bay

The centre of Salem has been reduced to everything ghastly and ghoulish with, amongst others, a Witch House, a History of Witches Museum, a Pirate Museum, the Nightmare gallery and Fatima’s Psychic Studio and shop upon shop selling all things weird and witch like. However the up side of all this is that Salem, away from the witchy centre, has loads of cafes and restaurants and quite a vibrant upbeat feel. 

The waterfront is pleasant with a replica ship gracing one of the old docks. Many of the original and gracious houses have survived and there is much to savour apart from the booming witch industry.

Customs' House

Replica ship in the harbour

In fact the whole of the coast north of Boston is full of pretty wooded bays and inlets, huge homes and small boats bobbing in every sheltered waterway. The beach at Gloucester is beautiful even if the $20 (£15) parking fee is eye watering but if you don’t mind walking a mile, you can park for free. The car park was packed even at these prices so someone is raking it in.

Rockport - murky afternoon

Further north, Rockport is quaint in a New Age kind of way but with a booming tourist economy based on shops selling all manner of tourist tat and plenty of cafes and restaurants.  Further north Newburyport is charming with a beautiful riverside walk and upmarket shops.

This is also New England so weatherboard houses are everywhere and as Arthur Daley from Minder would say, ‘The world’s your lobster.’ Lobsters are ubiquitous, alive in tanks or bright red from being boiled. You can even buy lobster rolls in McDonalds. Lobsters are also reproduced as key rings, can openers, door handles and in any other form, size or colour you can imagine.

Food

The matter of lobsters leads on to the broader issue of food. Eating out is a bewildering experience to Brits used to more conservative fare. Menus come with all manner of foods and combinations unheard of on our side of the Atlantic.  Even so, having selected your menu option, it then seems beholden upon you to tailor it to your specific requirement, re-arranging the food items till you have exactly what you would like, the way you would like it. However with three carbs per plateful and liberal amounts of butter, it can be wise to re-design some healthier options.

Supersize is normal and most portions seem to give you two sittings so take away in polystyrene containers is a must. You can enjoy the rest of your tailor made meal tomorrow as well as today!  The only exception to this is ice cream – of course!

The ice cream experience is second to none. In this area there are two superb ice cream places. One is just a regular parlour – fantastic - but the other is a place to visit in its own right.  Richardson’s is an ice cream factory complete with the cows and goats that provide the milk along with mini golf and a golf range – naturally? Ice cream is served from a long line of counters, each with its own queue of people even at 9 p.m., similar to Border Control at Stanstead Airport.  The range of flavours is comprehensive, an enormous long list but also puzzling. What is grapenut custard flavour or black raspberry or toffee crunch with Heath bars? Portions are also supersize with a child’s cup equivalent to a meal.

Outings

Apart from exploring Salem and the surrounding area, we also ventured further afield to Vermont and the town of Burlington beautifully situated on Lake Champlain, modestly named by Monsieur Champlain after himself. It is a university town, bustling and lively and the countryside of Vermont is charming – green fields alongside wooded mountains and valleys. Vermont is also home to Ben and Jerry’s, the ethical ice cream makers.  A tour of their factory is very informative and ends with a small cup of their delicious ice cream.

Beautiful lake Champlain

Burlington with a bustling night life

Ben and Jerry visit

Lake Champlain

Big swing seats on the lake side.

Ferry from Salem to Boston

Our other main outing was to Boston itself – a beautiful city.  We travelled by ferry from Salem taking the much cheaper commuter ferry which meant we arrived in Boston at 8 a.m. whilst it was still quiet.  We walked and walked which was just as well after all the ice cream and supersize meals.

Boston harbour side

The famous ducks in the park

Freedom Park

Bunker Hill

We had all visited Boston before so it was more of a refresher course except for our walk up Bunker Hill, the site of the last battle that the Brits won against the nascent American nation.  Soon after would follow the Boston Tea Party and a few more confrontations before the Brits’ final expulsion, south of the 49^th parallel, back to our side of the Atlantic.

Bunker Hill now has an impressive obelisk which can be climbed by the energetic and below in the docks in USS Constitution ‘Old Ironsides’ so called because cannon balls bounced of her sides.

We trudged back across the Charles River then through little Italy, decorated in red, white and green and on Friday afternoon full of all manner of food stalls.  Boston was now a-buzz with pre weekend anticipation but we took a diversion through Freedom Park, a holocaust memorial and surely one of the most moving places to visit before returning on the ferry to Salem.

Pronunciation

George Bernard Shaw was indeed right when he said England and America are two countries separated by a common language. It isn’t just the language though – it’s how you say it. We spent some amusing moments comparing the pronunciation of Adirondacks, chipotle, Montpelier (the Vermont one not the French Montpellier) and even Peabody. 

Money

America at some levels seems to be still in the dark ages where credit cards are concerned. Chip and PIN is almost unknown as are hand held card readers. Much more common in restaurants is that waitresses walk off with your credit card and then return it with a slip onto which you add the tip, sign and leave it.  It entirely depends on the waitress being honest and not putting any old amount on your card.

You can spend $50 in a store with no signature or use of a PIN so if anyone found a card lying on the floor they could go into a shop and buy up to $50 worth of goods with no questions asked. How come fraud is not more prevalent?

On the other hand drinks can be bought in Starbucks and other coffee shops using their App loaded with money.  It acts as a loyalty card with bonuses for loyal customers.  The two don’t quite add up.

Jonathan and Alyssa's church

However having said all that – we had a ball.  It was great to spend time with Jonathan and Alyssa and they certainly made life easier as they translated the culture for us as we went along.  My big mistake was ordering chicken salad platter which I assumed (wrongly) would be a nice salad with some chicken. Chicken salad is actually a solid lump of white something reminiscent of warm ice cream which may or may not have some chicken in it and the tomato and cucumber were more of a garnish than a salad.  The look on Jonathan’s face when I ordered should have warned me I was not getting what I expected.

However we found Americans across the board were friendly and wanted to meet Jonathan’s parents with their ‘cute’ accent. We loved visiting Jonathan and Alyssa’s church where Jonathan plays in the worship band. It was all refreshingly different and uplifting.

We thoroughly enjoyed our whole holiday.  What an experience. As we flew back across the Atlantic, leaving Boston further and further behind, I was filled with sadness; sorrow at leaving Jonathan and Alyssa behind, leaving the sunshine and America and all those calories. I hadn’t expected it but I left a little of my heart in Salem. 

Peter Rabbit themed baby shower

Alyssa's baby shower