The Kruger National Park is the flagship park in South
Africa; the big one and the best one. It covers an area the size of Wales or
Israel and it is not just the Big 5 that you will see but most of the animals
of southern Africa. It rarely
disappoints and that was the case on this visit.
We stayed nine days in the park, the longest we have ever
spent, mostly in the middle section, an area that we were least familiar
with. We flew into the tiny airport of
Skukuza, right in the park, picked up a car and were on our way. It was a
four-hour drive to our first camp for the night – Satara.
Along the way we were surprised that everywhere was fairly
green – this is a drought area – and we saw masses of animals. Later we realised that it was this very
greenness that had caused so many animals to be in the area. Their normal
ranges were dry with no grazing and no water so they had migrated to where they
could find both. We had to be fairly disciplined about not stopping too often for
animal sightings as we would never have got to the camp in time and the fine
for late arrival is hefty.
Just as the light was fading we saw a male lion ambling by
calling out to any lonely females but none were forthcoming.
Next morning we were on our way north to Mopani, a camp
named after the ubiquitous mopane bush. The camp is one of the newer ones and
very different from the traditional highly manicured camps with huts in rows or
circles. Here the houses have been placed in the mopane bushveld so every house
is surrounded not just by the mopane but also by long grass. This area has had
some rain in the last month.
It was very hot that day and we were delighted to arrive at
Mopani and cool off with a dip in the pool before braaiing in the evening light
with all the beetles and bugs crashing around to join us.
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| The pool at Mopani |
Later we found
ourselves out in almost savannah like conditions with plenty of game and a
welcome change from the rather boring mopane. We saw loads of birds including a
kori bustard puffing his feathers up to impress his three female companions.
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| Mr Kori Bustard |
We also saw two male impalas fighting, literally locking
horns. It was very impressive.
Having exhausted many of the delights of the Mopani area we
moved south to Olifants a beautiful camp with a beautiful view over the Oliphants
River. On the way we had another incredible sighting when we came across a
mother cheetah with her cub that was sitting on a roadside sign as we
approached. We spent 10 minutes watching
and photographing them before they melted into the bush and again not another
car came by.
We stopped at Letaba for breakfast overlooking the Letaba
River with all manner of storks including the lugubrious Marabou stork standing
on the sandbanks or in the water fishing.
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| Marabou stork |
Afterwards we enjoyed an amble along the riverside walk and
spotted some beautiful birds.
We then tried the road to the Mingerhout Dam which at first
seemed very unpromising. Suddenly a
leopard raced across the road in front of us chased by two large baboons. The leopard had obviously been eyeing up a
baboon lunch and the two males were having none of it. It was all over before
we knew it but we then got held up for quite a while as two elephants frisked
up and down the road.
We were just speculating about whether we would see any
klipspringers and there were three of them standing on the rock as only
klipspringers can. We finally got to the dam which had a long line of crocs sleeping
along the bank.
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| Klipspringers |
At the camp, our rondavel was more than a little
disappointing with a terrible shortage of basic equipment and utensils and as
we tried to cook and eat the first night we were attacked by a swarm of
moths. It seems the whole camp suffers
from them at this time of year.
As we set off next morning we were scarcely a kilometre from
the camp when we came upon eight hyenas ‘beached’ on the road having obviously
overindulged on breakfast. Their bellies were enormous and despite cars driving
past all the time, they were nor moving.
On the journey to Satara for breakfast we found that for 20
kilometres north of the camp the bush is dry with no grazing and few animals.
However a family of hyena were still living in a culvert by the side of the
road amongst the arid landscape. After breakfast we visited Timbavati picnic
spot crowded with South Africans having a Saturday morning braai. They sure
know how to do it in style – loads of food, crockery, cutlery and even tablecloths.
Timbavati is a beautifully maintained picnic site but the Timbavati River had
little water.
Further on there was water and we were very diverted by one
hippo that was grazing on the bank close to a sleeping croc overlooking a large
pod of hippos. She launched herself inelegantly into the river causing a minor
tidal wave and then clambered over some of her fellow hippos to take her place
in the pod. Much grumbling from the others.
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| Hilda clambering over her fellow hippos |
On the way back to Oliphants I asked God for one last sight
for the day, furry if possible, and as we turned into the approach road, there
was a pack of wild dogs sleeping under the bushes.
The following day was bird day. It just happens like that
sometimes – few animals but lots of wonderful bird sightings mainly along the
Olifants and Letaba Rivers. Quite amazing.
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| European bee eater |
It was time to head back to Skukuza. Having passed Satara we
chose a route along a road noted for game viewing but it was shocking. Everywhere was dry, little grazing and no
water. We even visited a favourite dam where we had had marvellous sightings in
the past but the dam was bone dry. We saw the carcasses of hippo who had tried
to get to the River Sabie but never made it. Later as we crossed the River
Sabie by Lower Sabie camp the water was in full flow and on the other side of
the river everything was green and we saw just about every animal except
elephant and rhino. Even two hungry lionesses crossed the road just in front of
us.
Skukuza is the flagship camp of the park. It is big, vibrant
and full of tourists but has a wonderful riverside walk and restaurant balcony.
It was a good place for our final night, an easing back into civilisation after
a week in the bush with few people but many birds and animals.
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| Resident warthogs at Skukuza |
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| The riverside walk at Skukuza |
The Kruger Park lodges itself into your brain; the animals,
the beautiful river vistas, the birds and the quiet. Surprises lurk around
every corner – it’s a very special place and we feel very privileged to have
had another holiday there.
